![]() ![]() Bigger is better as smaller flimsy tripods can move around and flex in the wind which will result in startrails that aren’t smooth. You don’t need the fastest lens you can get your hands on – f/2.8 isn’t required and an f/4-5 lens should be fine, but slower lenses will require a higher ISO setting to compensate, which might be an issue on camera bodies with poor noise performance. These allow you to compose a shot with an interesting foreground while still capturing a good amount of sky in the frame. With your camera sorted, it’s time to think lenses. A good modern DSLR with a battery grip is usually sufficient. It is difficult to change a battery mid shoot without moving the camera and as you will be running the camera for long periods of time, use a battery grip if you can. You will need to choose a camera with reasonable noise performance as one of the critical part of this style of photography is being able to shoot at high ISOs (6400 and higher). The Nikon ones for example are limited to exposure times of 30 seconds or less. I recommend avoiding the in-camera intervalometers as configuration options can be a bit limited. Any basic external intervalometer will do. #Startrail photo manualThe gearįirstly, you’ll need a camera that has manual control over exposure settings and the ability to connect an intervalometer (or a built in intervalometer). It is a cool technique that every photographer should try at least once and in this tutorial I will show you how it’s done. When a camera captures that movement with a long exposure, it is called a startrail. As Earth spins under the sky, the stars appear to move. ![]()
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